Ferns are popular indoors because they grow in lower light than most flowering plants. They are not one care routine, though. Clemson Extension notes that some commonly grown ferns have “a well-earned reputation for being finicky”, while others are surprisingly easy.

The rule of thumb from Clemson: ferns with tough, leathery fronds adapt better to ordinary rooms than feathery, delicate ones. Delicate types need a terrarium or a humid room such as a bathroom. Use that to choose a fern for the room you have.

Indoor ferns compared

Care is from NC State Extension and Clemson HGIC 1505. Pet status is from the ASPCA.

FernBotanical nameLookHumidityPets (ASPCA)
Boston fernNephrolepis exaltataArching, finely divided fronds 60–90 cm (2–3 ft)HighNon-toxic
Maidenhair fernAdiantum raddianum, A. capillus-venerisTiny leaflets on black, wiry stemsHigh; soil never dryNot listed
Bird’s nest fernAsplenium nidusBroad, undivided fronds in a vase-shaped rosetteDoes not tolerate dry conditions; pebble tray may be neededNot listed
Staghorn fernPlatycerium bifurcatumGrey-green antler fronds over flat shield frondsVery highNon-toxic
Rabbit’s foot fernDavallia fejeensisLacy fronds; furry rhizomes over the pot edgeTolerates lower humidity than most fernsNon-toxic
Button fernPellaea rotundifoliaSmall, round, leathery leaflets on arching stemsDoes not need high humidityNon-toxic
Holly fernCyrtomium falcatumGlossy, leathery, holly-like leafletsTolerates dry airNon-toxic
Brake or table fernsPteris cretica and othersNarrow leaflets, often variegated white or silverModerate to highNon-toxic (silver table fern)
Blue star fernPhlebodium aureumDeeply lobed blue-green fronds; golden, scaly rhizomesMedium to highNot listed
Asparagus fern (not a fern)Asparagus setaceus, A. densiflorusFeathery, needle-like sprays on wiry, spiny stemsHighToxic

On difficulty, Clemson calls bird’s nest, holly and Cretan brake ferns easy, and maidenhairs “difficult to grow in most homes”. NC State says most Pteris are easy and calls asparagus fern one of the least demanding houseplants.

Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)

The most common indoor fern, and the one most people search for care advice on. NC State Extension describes fronds 60–90 cm (2–3 ft) long that are attractive in a hanging basket.

Care in brief (NC State and Clemson):

  • Light: bright, indirect or filtered light.
  • Temperature: NC State gives 16–21 °C (60–70 °F). Clemson suggests days of 20–22 °C (68–72 °F) and nights of 10–13 °C (50–55 °F).
  • Water: keep the soil moist and never let it dry out. Water less in winter, when overwatering can cause root rot.
  • Humidity: high. Kitchens and bathrooms help, or stand the pot on a tray of wet pebbles.

Dark brown dots in rows under the fronds are spores, not pests. Scale and spider mites appear when the air is too dry. NC State lists cultivars including the classic ‘Bostoniensis’, the shorter ‘Compacta’, and ‘Dallas’, which tolerates lower light and humidity. Others include ‘Fluffy Ruffles’, ‘Tiger Stripe’ and the chartreuse ‘Rita’s Gold’.

Full details are in our Boston fern care guide. For problems, see brown fronds and shedding leaflets.

Maidenhair fern (Adiantum)

Clemson describes “tiny leaflets cascading along black wirelike stems”, 15–50 cm (6–20 in) tall. It also calls maidenhairs difficult in most homes. They need high humidity, a north-window light, and soil kept moist at all times.

NC State says the delta maidenhair, A. raddianum, loses vigour in too much shade or full sun, and its roots must not dry out. It does well in bathrooms and terrariums. Thin fronds brown quickly in dry air; Clemson notes this is especially common in maidenhairs.

Bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus)

Undivided, strap-shaped, bright green fronds with black midribs form a funnel. NC State notes the funnel naturally traps falling leaves. Clemson calls it easy and gives about 45 cm (18 in) as an indoor height.

NC State advice: bright light or light shade such as a north window; too much sun yellows the fronds or stops growth. Keep it at 16–21 °C (60–70 °F) and never below 4 °C (40 °F). The fronds are fragile and can be damaged by chemical insecticides.

Staghorn fern (Platycerium bifurcatum)

An epiphyte with two kinds of frond. Flat, sterile shield fronds press against the mount and turn brown with age, which is normal. Grey-green antler fronds grow out from the crown, usually 60–90 cm (2–3 ft) long in cultivation.

NC State recommends an orchid or sphagnum moss mix, or a slab of wood or bark. Water the crown regularly. Let the roots dry slightly between waterings, but never completely. Clemson says it needs very high humidity.

Rabbit’s foot fern (Davallia)

Named for its furry rhizomes, which creep over the pot edge and look like rabbit’s feet. That is normal growth, not a problem. NC State says D. fejeensis tolerates low humidity better than other ferns but looks better in high humidity.

Let the top 1.25 cm (½ in) of mix dry between waterings, and keep it above 13 °C (55 °F). It suits hanging baskets. To propagate, NC State suggests pinning 5–7.5 cm (2–3 in) rhizome tip cuttings onto moist mix.

Button fern (Pellaea rotundifolia)

A compact New Zealand fern, 15–30 cm (6–12 in) tall, with glossy, round leaflets. NC State says it does not need the high humidity most ferns prefer. Grow it in indirect light in a peaty, acidic, well-drained mix. Clemson adds that some winter sun helps.

Holly fern (Cyrtomium falcatum)

Leathery, glossy, dark green leaflets with toothed edges like holly. Clemson calls it easy and adaptable, tolerating dry air, draughts and low light. NC State lists scale, fungal leaf spots and root rot as its main problems, with mealybugs and mites attacking drought-stressed plants.

Brake or table ferns (Pteris)

NC State says most Pteris species are easy to grow. Give them bright, indirect light, moist, well-drained mix, moderate to high humidity and 12–26 °C (54–78 °F). Cultivars include P. cretica ‘Albolineata’ (white centre stripe) and ‘Mayii’, and P. ensiformis ‘Victoriae’ (silvery white fronds edged in green, per Clemson). Black spots can appear if humidity is too high.

Blue star fern (Phlebodium aureum)

Large, deeply lobed fronds in green to blue-green on golden, scaly rhizomes. NC State notes it tolerates drying out between waterings, unlike most ferns here. It is often grown in a hanging basket for air movement. Browning fronds suggest it needs more humidity; curling suggests low humidity or underwatering.

Asparagus fern: the look-alike

NC State is clear that asparagus ferns are not ferns. They belong to the asparagus family, Asparagaceae. Give them bright, indirect light, high humidity and 13–21 °C (55–70 °F). Yellowing needles mean too little light or water. The stems carry spines, and the tuberous roots fill a pot quickly.

The ASPCA lists asparagus fern as toxic to dogs and cats. Repeated skin contact can cause allergic dermatitis. Eating the berries can cause vomiting, abdominal pain or diarrhoea.

Care that applies to most ferns

From Clemson HGIC 1505:

  • Light: moderate, indirect light; close to a north window is ideal. Never put ferns directly in a south- or west-facing window.
  • Temperature: 16–21 °C (60–70 °F) by day, about 5–6 °C (10 °F) cooler at night.
  • Water: never let any fern dry out completely, and never leave water standing in the pot.
  • Mix: porous and organic, draining quickly.
  • Feeding: lightly once a month from April to September, at about half the label rate. None in winter, and none for six months after repotting.
  • Pests: scale and mites are the most common. Many ferns are injured by pesticide sprays, so test any product on a small area first.

Pets

The ASPCA lists these as non-toxic to dogs and cats: Boston fern, staghorn fern, rabbit’s foot fern (Davallia), button fern, holly fern and silver table fern (Pteris). Maidenhair, bird’s nest and blue star fern are not on the ASPCA list, so their status is unknown rather than confirmed safe. Asparagus fern is toxic.

References