Winter is when many houseplants look their worst, and it is easy to respond with more water and more fertilizer. Usually that is the wrong move. NC State explains that winter light is weaker and days are shorter, so growth slows or stops. Plants then need less water and less fertilizer.

The work in winter is mostly adjustment: more light, less water, little or no feeding, protection from heat and cold, and a closer eye on pests.

Winter care at a glance

FactorWhat to doSource basis
LightMove plants out of dark corners into the brightest spot they tolerateRHS: plants benefit from full sun when daylight is weak
WaterWater less often; check the mix firstIowa State; Maryland: overwatering is the top winter killer
FeedingStop, or at most once a monthIowa State, Clemson, NC State; RHS: once a month at most
Temperature18–24 °C (65–75 °F) day, 16–18 °C (60–65 °F) nightIowa State
HumidityHumidifier, grouping or pebble trays; misting does littleIowa State, NC State, RHS
Windows and draftsKeep leaves off cold glass; not behind curtains; away from vents and doorsIowa State, Illinois, RHS, NC State
PestsInspect plants brought in from outdoors and isolate themIowa State, Clemson

Light: move plants toward the window

The RHS says many houseplants that need shelter from harsh summer sun benefit from full sunlight in winter, when daylight is weak. It suggests bringing plants out of dark corners for a “holiday” somewhere brighter.

Warmth without light causes problems. The RHS warns that too much warmth with low winter daylight can force weak, unhealthy growth. NC State explains the mechanism: low light means little food is made, while high temperatures increase the food a plant uses. If low light is all you have, a cooler room within the plant’s range prolongs its life.

Grow lights can fill the gap. Clemson HGIC 1450 says plants that get little or no artificial light are the ones that enter a winter rest. See our grow light distance and duration guide.

Watering less, without letting roots dry out

University of Maryland Extension calls overwatering the number one reason houseplants die in winter. It warns against assuming that once a week is the right interval. Watch for wilting in wet mix: Maryland says root rot can damage roots so badly they cannot move water to the leaves.

How to check:

  1. Feel the mix. Iowa State says water when it is dry about 2.5 cm (1 in) down, then water until it runs out of the drainage holes and discard the excess.
  2. Lift the pot. Maryland suggests learning the weight of a freshly watered pot, then checking it over the following week.
  3. Probe deep pots. For large plants, Maryland slides a stick or ruler to the bottom of the pot and checks where moisture remains.
  4. Aim for “wrung-out”. In winter, Maryland suggests letting most of the mix dry to the feel of a freshly wrung-out dish towel: not bone dry, not too moist.

Room conditions change the answer. The RHS says pots dry faster when central heating lowers humidity, and plants in a cool room need water less often than plants in a warm one. Use room-temperature water: the RHS says cold water can kill.

The RHS also flags decorative outer pots. Check about 10 minutes after watering and tip away any water left inside. Our watering guide covers the checks in detail.

Feeding: stop or slow right down

SourceWinter feeding advice
Iowa StateGenerally not necessary; most houseplants are not growing
Clemson HGIC 1450Do not fertilize plants in a winter rest
Illinois ExtensionVery little or none during the short days of winter
NC StateNone from November to February unless deficiency symptoms appear
RHSNo more than once a month

A plant under grow lights that keeps producing new leaves is still growing. Our fertilizer schedule explains how to judge it by growth rather than the date.

Humidity near heating

Heating dries the air. Iowa State says many houseplants prefer 40–50% relative humidity, but homes can drop to 10–20% in winter. Illinois says most homes fall below 30% in winter. NC State attributes the drop to heating and air-conditioning systems.

What works, from Iowa State, NC State and the RHS:

  • A humidifier in the growing area. NC State calls it the most effective option.
  • Grouping plants, so evaporation from the mix and leaves raises humidity around them.
  • Pebble trays with the water level below the base of the pot. NC State warns that a pot sitting in leachate can reabsorb salts and become waterlogged.

Misting does little. Iowa State says misted leaves dry quickly, so it would have to be done several times a day. The RHS names ferns, calatheas, marantas and orchids as plants that especially appreciate a pebble tray. Our humidity guide covers measuring your room.

Cold windows, drafts and heat sources

Winter brings both too much heat and too much cold. The RHS says radiators and fires can crisp delicate leaves, while cold windowsills can damage plants.

  • Glass. Iowa State says to keep foliage from touching cold windows. Illinois warns that cold glass can damage leaves.
  • Curtains. Do not trap plants between a closed curtain and the window. Iowa State says that space gets warm by day and cold at night; the RHS says it can become very cold.
  • Distance. NC State says moving plants about 15 cm (6 in) back from a window usually protects them from excessive heat or cold.
  • Doors and vents. Keep plants away from cold drafts, radiators and hot air vents (Iowa State). NC State says tropical plants near exterior doors can suffer chilling injury.
  • Appliances. NC State says the mix of a plant on a warm refrigerator or television dries quickly.

NC State says many species are chilled below 13 °C (55 °F), while others tolerate 7 °C (45 °F). Chilling damage can take weeks to show. Wrap plants for any trip outside, and warm the car first.

Plants coming in from outdoors

Plants that spent summer outside need a pest check before they join the rest. Clemson HGIC says to move them in before the heating goes on, when inside and outside temperatures are about the same.

Iowa State rinses foliage while plants are still outside, lets it dry, then keeps them apart from other houseplants for 3–4 weeks. Clemson suggests checking the drainage holes and treating with insecticidal soap. Some yellowing or leaf drop is normal as plants adjust to lower indoor light (Clemson).

Clemson’s end-of-winter advice is to inspect every plant again by March. Mealybugs, scale and fungus gnats take advantage of plants stressed by winter conditions. Our houseplant pests guide covers identification and treatment.

Dormant plants: let them rest

Some plants die back on purpose. NC State notes that plants in dormant stages absorb few nutrients, so feeding them achieves little.

Late winter: get ready for spring

Clemson HGIC suggests a checkup as days lengthen. Wipe dust off the leaves, lightly prune dead, yellow or leggy growth with sanitized snips, and ease back into the growing-season watering routine. Wait until active growth begins before restarting fertilizer.

For the full year, see our houseplant care calendar.

References